Omnivory

OMFG, I Just Made Bagels

2009-10-12T12:29:00.005-04:00

No time to make a proper post, but I need to show off:

I made this using the bagel recipe from Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day. I didn't check the book's errata before I started, so I baked it at 400F instead of 450F, but it still came out beautifully!

I was going for an "everything" bagel, so the topping was a mix of poppy seeds, sesame seeds, dehydrated onion flakes, garlic powder, and salt.

Mmm...

Roasted Brussels Sprouts

2009-05-05T15:11:00.003-04:00

Unlike most people, I have always liked brussels sprouts. I can't explain it. It might have started with the microwave brussels in cheese-like sauce that my dad made for me when I was tiny. (I think he bought them by accident; usually he and I pigged out on broccoli in cheese-like sauce.)

That said, brussels sprouts can be really hard to cook well. If you roast them, they can be very dry. If you steam them, you don't get as full a flavor, and you risk overcooking them, which gives them that sulfurous, cabbage-family stink.

The trick is to use both moist and dry heat. I experimented with a few different methods: covering the roasting dish, steaming first and then roasting, etc. Those both helped, but didn't quite produce the effect I wanted.

But then I stumbled across a surprising solution. It's almost magical in it's simplicity and "wow, that shouldn't work"-ness. It's so magical, I almost feel like I shouldn't commit it to writing. Use frozen brussels, and don't thaw them first!

The frozen sprouts hold moisture in the form of tiny ice crystals inside the sprouts. So as those crystals melt and heat up, they steam the inside of the sprout, keeping the inner layers plump and moist. And roasting the frozen sprouts gives the outside layers time to get nice and crispy-brown, while the inside gets lightly and perfectly cooked.

Toss them first in plenty of flavorful olive oil and soft aromatic garlic powder, and you have something really special. And all made from things that you pulled out of the freezer or pantry and dumped directly into the pan!

Roasted Brussels Sprouts
serves 2-3

INGREDIENTS:
- one 10oz box of brussels sprouts, still frozen
- at least 1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil (or a lot more, to taste)
- a generous shake (appx 1/2 tsp) garlic powder (or a lot more, to taste)
- nice-quality salt, to taste

INSTRUCTIONS:

Preheat the oven to 425F (any temperature between 350 and 450F will work). Toss the brussels sprouts, still frozen, with the olive oil and garlic powder, until they are evenly-coated. Place in a single-layer in a baking dish and roast, turning once or twice, until heated through and darkly browned on at least one side (usually the bottom), usually 35-45 minutes. Salt to taste.

SERVING SUGGESTION:
This is tasty enough to be a holiday side dish, and easy enough for everyday meals. I think it's especially good alongside lamb, roasted chicken or turkey, and roast beef. But any dish with a roasted character or with garlic (but not tomatoes) would probably work really well.

NOTES:

As with most of my recipes, the quantities are approximate, and don't really matter all that much. Just be generous with the olive oil and garlic powder, and you'll be fine.

While this dish is best when roasted at about 400-425, it will work just fine at anything from 350-450. So you can just throw it in the oven with whatever else you're cooking. (Except desserts: you really don't want them smelling like yummy roasting garlic. Unless you do...

These reheat beautifully. For a holiday meal, dinner party, or busy day, you can do most of the cooking ahead of time, and then reheat and finish crisping just before serving.

If you're in a hurry, you can thaw the brussels in the fridge or microwave, which cuts the cooking time about in half. I think the texture turns out best cooked directly from frozen.

I usually prefer to work with fresh ingredients, but you really will get better results (better texture and a much rounder, roastier flavor from) frozen sprouts and garlic powder.

If you do the tossing in the roasting dish, you have only one dish to wash!

"Yes, Actually, I DO Get A Bit Obsessive" Chili

2009-04-30T15:01:00.010-04:00

When I was sevenish, I judged a chili contest at Art Park.

And, being sevenish, I was not that into spicy, so I (along with most of the other judges, who were all adults) voted for the non-spicy, "Ridiculously Easy Chili". And since it was, indeed, easy, and it was pretty tasty, that became our family's standard chili recipe. Plus, it made a great breakfast choice for my reactively-hypoglycemic little self, who could barely make it to school on a bowl of cheerios.

My mom has since migrated to a new recipe, her "We're All Adults Now" Chili. I will admit, I have yet to try this.

So one day, I bought a can of chipotle peppers in adobo sauce for a deviled eggs recipe (which I still haven't tried), and I got a taste for chili, which hijacked my one little can. So a new dish - and a new obsession - was born.

I make this a few times a year, but when I do, one batch is not enough. I will eat it for two or three meals a day for two weeks straight. This is decidedly husband-friendly, but mine doesn't usually get any of it.

Like most of my recipes, the amounts are estimated and not that important anyway. Adjust it to suit yourself. :)

"Yes, Actually, I DO Get a Bit Obsessive" Chili
Serves 4-8, depending on the size of your eyes and/or stomach.

INGREDIENTS:

Chili:

1/2 cup dried kidney beans or one 15-oz can, rinsed and drained

1 medium onion, chopped

Olive oil (about 1 Tbsp)

1 to 1.5 lbs ground beef (mine comes from the nice people at Chestnut Farms)

2 cups V8-style vegetable juice (sounds gross, but gives it a fuller flavor than just using tomatoes. The Whole Foods 365 brand organic stuff is great)

1 can tomato paste (again, I think the organic stuff tastes better)

1 big can of crushed tomatoes, diced tomatoes, whatever (you can skip this if you're using V8, but I like little chunks of tomato in my chili)

2-5 chipotle peppers in adobo sauce (depending on how spicey you like it)

A lot of cumin (I'm guessing 1.5-2 tsp)

A lot of garlic powder (about 1 tsp)

A generous shake of onion powder (about 1/2 tsp)

A teeny shake of cayenne pepper (about 1/8 tsp)

Enough beef stock to thin the chili to the desired thickness (optional)

Salt to taste

Optional Accompaniments:

Sour Cream

Shredded Cheese: monterey jack, colby, cheddar, etc.

Corn Chips (the blue ones are fun, but the yellow ones look the nicest)

Fresh Corn Kernels

INSTRUCTIONS:

If you are using dried beans, cover them with water and leave them to soak overnight. Drain, cover with fresh water, and simmer until just tender, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a dutch oven or large deep skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until they are soft and just begin to caramelize. (Don't rush this step; the chili just doesn't taste right if the onions are still crunchy.) Add the ground beef, and sauté until browned.

In a separate bowl, mix the V8 juice and tomato paste thoroughly.
(This seems pointless, but it's hard to mix in the tomato paste otherwise.)

Add the tomato paste to the meat mixture. Add the spices, beans, and the chipotles and their sauce, and stir to mix. If the chili is thicker than you'd like, thin with beef broth. Reduce heat to medium/low, and simmer until the flavors are well-blended, about 45-60 minutes. Remove the chipotles (trust me on this - don't skip this step!) If you can resist, store the chili in the fridge overnight and reheat; it's better on the second day!

Salt to taste, but keep in mind that most corn chips are pretty salty, so go a little easier than you would normally.

Serve in bowls, and top with whatever appeals to you: cheese, sour cream, corn chips, fresh corn kernels, etc. Go easy on the portions to start: this is VERY filling, especially once you add toppings. You can always have seconds. :)

WINE PAIRING:

I had this with a California Zinfandel (RED Zinfandel, not white, thank you very much!), and it was a great match. It wasn't tannic or astringent enough to taste harsh with the spice, and it had big round fruit flavors that meshed with the sweetness of the tomato and really brought out the nice round richness of the chilis.

I haven't tried it, but this might just work with a dry, sparkling rosé. Especially outside at a picnic with a nice fresh salad.

Standing on the Shoulders of Giants: Sweet/Stinky/Ugly/Funky Root Vegetable Soup

2009-02-28T01:26:00.027-05:00

Dear blog readers (if anybody is actually reading this), I have a confession to make. I have been holding out on you. Because of my selfish desire to keep it all for myself, I never told you about Persimmon.

I told close friends. I told my fish teacher. But I didn't tell you. Because I didn't want to face the day when I'd call for a reservation and not be able to get a table. But that was small of me, and I'm sorry. Well, maybe only a little sorry. :)

I've had a hard time putting into words why I love Persimmon so much, but I think I've stumbled on it. It's about simple perfection and harmony. Their food has just the right balance of exploration and simplicity: there's nothing extraneous, and nothing missing. I've eaten more impressive/virtuosic food, and these chefs are doing important work by pushing the boundaries of culinary creativity and technical skill.

But if there's anything that my dance career has taught me, it's that the most impressive performance is not necessarily the best one. At the end of the day, the best performance is the one with the perfect balance: one gives the audience just enough of what they want and pushes them just enough and is the most personal. It's the difference between receiving an elaborate floral arrangement, and simple bouquet of your favorite flower, perfectly arranged. That's what I get at Persimmon.

Of all the dishes I've enjoyed there, the soups shine the brightest. In fact, I've gained a reputation as That Crazy Soup Girl, since I have had the soup for both appetizer and dessert (on two occasions: the sunchoke soup with an island of fried oysters and caviar and pea/asparagus vichyssoise). So you can imagine how excited I was when they announced that their very first cooking class would cover soups.

The class was demo-based, rather than hands-on (I like to get my hands dirty), but it still told me exactly what was missing in my own soups:

how to make a rich, clean stock: choose high-gelatin ingredients, rinse away as much blood & marrow as possible, bring to a boil slowly, skim obsessively.

compositional ideas: make the soup taste truly like the main ingredient(s), then add solid or liquid toppings that allow the diner to make each bite be a different experience.

So if that class and the tips that Helen shared with me on her blog together comprised a university course, this recipe would be my final project.

In the last month, I've made it twice and eaten it five times, and it still hasn't paled in my affections. And my husband, who usually has to be tied to a chair to eat root vegetables, took one taste of mine, and demanded his own bowl.

Soup of Sweet, Stinky, Funky and Ugly Root Vegetables

Notes: I'll be honest. I eyeballed everything in this recipe. The measurements given here are approximate and highly suspect. But that's okay. Try it, and adjust. You can always add a more stock if it's too thick, or a little more cooked potato if it's too thin.

Substitutions and Riffs:

This would work really well with pretty much any root vegetables in the mix, so use your imagination. The basic idea is to use sweet vegetables like carrots to prop up those with a more stinky/funky flavor like turnips, rutabagas, and parsnips.

Now, parsnips are sweet enough on their own, but I don't recommend omitting the carrots, since they give the soup a pretty color. If you used all-white veggies (ex: turnips, parsnips), the caramelization you get when you roast the veggies would give the soup a sickly beige color that wouldn't be all that appetizing. Celery root (simmered, not roasted) gives the soup a nice undertone too.

I used chicken stock for this, since it's what I had on hand, but feel free to substitute. Vegetable stock would also probably work very well well. Champe gave us a recipe for apple stock that tastes fantastic in my mind's mouth, but I can't guarantee it. I'm curious as to whether a mix of chicken and shrimp stock would work... If anybody tries alternative stocks, let me know how they go.

One principle that I took away from the soup class at Persimmon was to use two or more toppings to allow the eater to make each bite a different experience. Here are some flavoring ideas that I tried:
- sage, apple, maple bacon
- garlic, maple, balsamic vinegar
- bacon and nutmeg
- truffle salt and thyme

I also bet that any of the following would be amazing, but I haven't tried them yet:
- wild boar or other game, possibly with balsamic or citrus peel flavors
- calves' liver, delicately fried, probably with the balsamic/maple reduction in v3.

For a main dish, you could probably serve the game or liver on a regular plate on a nice little pond of the soup.

Ingredients:

Soup:
- 2 large turnips, cubed (you may substitute rutabagas, if desired)
- 1 lb parsnips (appx 3 big ones), quartered lengthwise
- 1 shallot, chopped fine
- 3 or 4 large carrots, peeled and sliced
- 1 Tbsp sugar, optional
- 4 small white or yellow potatoes (or 1 baking-sized one), quartered
- olive oil
- about 2 qts unsalted chicken stock
(Homemade is best if you have it, otherwise the most flavorful unsalted variety you can find. It's best to have a little extra on hand)
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
- salt to taste

Accompaniments:

v1: (yummy)
- 1 strip bacon, fried until crisp and tossed in 1 tsp maple syrup
- 1/4 flavorful apple (I used a buttery apple sauce, but I'll bet roasted or glazed apple slices would be even better)
- 5 sage leaves, gently fried in butter
- 6 sage leaves for the stock (don't skip this step!)

v2: (okay)
- fresh-grated nutmeg or nutmeg-infused grapeseed oil (olive oil will work in this recipe)
- 1 strip bacon, fried until crisp

v3: (excellent)
- 3 roasted garlic cloves, skins removed
- 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar and 1/4 cup maple syrup, heated together until thick and syrupy

v4: (not that great)
- truffle salt or oil
- 1 sprig/serving fresh thyme for garnish
- 4 sprigs fresh thyme for the stock

Make the soup:

- preheat the oven to 425F

- toss the turnips and parsnips generously with olive oil. Sprinkle the turnips with sugar (optional). Roast (turning occasionally) until browned on at least one side (20-40 minutes?) They'll probably be tender at this point, but it doesn't actually matter.

- meanwhile, saute the shallots in olive oil in a large dutch oven until soft and lightly browned

- remove the vegetables from the roasting pan, and place in a large dutch oven. Ladle some of the stock into the emptied roasting pan, and deglaze by scraping any browned bits, encouraging them to dissolve into the stock. Pour the deglazing liquid over the vegetables.

- add the turnips, parsnips, shallots, carrots, and potatoes in a large dutch oven. Tie any topping-related herbs into a bouquet or in a cheesecloth sack, and add them to the pot. Add enough of the remaining stock to cover the vegetables generously, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer gently until the vegetables are very tender and the potatoes break apart when poked through with a fork.

- remove any topping-related herbs and discard.

- puree the soup in a blender. Work in batches so it doesn't explode. Pulse first to mush it up, then puree on highest speed to make it smooth and add air. And more stock if needed to make it smooth and fluffy.

- strain through a fine mesh sieve, stirring with a ladle, and pressing the back into the sieve to help it along.

- return the strained soup to the sauce pan, add the cream, and heat over medium-low, stirring frequently, until hot. Meanwhile, prepare the toppings.

- salt to taste

- if desired, run through the blender or immersion blender on high speed just before serving to add more "fluff"

- ladle into soup plates and top with desired toppings.

Serves about 8. Maybe.

Wine Pairings: I still haven't figured this one out. I tried it with an off-dry riesling first. It had enough sweetness and acidity to stand up to the dish, but it's more subtle flavors were lost in the big, earthy POW of the soup. I also tried a Chianti that I had on hand. It had enough body, but was too dry and astringent. My guess is that a big fruit-forward California Zinfandel would do the trick, but I haven't confirmed it yet.

UPDATE: the Zinfandel was a step closer, but still a little dry compared to the soup. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them!

Reheating Tips: The silky texture is a big part of this soup. Microwaving, even on lower heat, tends to give it a dried-out, thickened "skin" around the edges that isn't very appealing. I'd recommend reheating it on the stove-top, stirring frequently. Or if you must microwave it, skim off the skin before serving. Either way, give it a run through the blender (immersion blender comes in handy here)

If you try this, let me know:

- which ingredients you used
- what you used for toppings
- which wines you tried and how they worked out

Just a quickie

2009-01-13T18:01:00.003-05:00

I stumbled upon a fantastic quote today at Ambrosia and Nectar (whose pork belly and baked beans is probably going to end up on my table sometime this week, assuming I don't get preemptively lynched for using tomato in a baked bean recipe in Boston. I'm hoping they'll make allowances, me being Not From Here and all. Or maybe I should play it safe and make a traditional recipe. Play it safe, or be bold?)

Anyway, here's the quote:
"luxuriating over the chopping board and stove each night"

I shivered when I read that. It is EXACTLY how I feel about cooking: something to luxuriate in. Not a chore, not a hobby, not even a sport (and trust me, there are plenty of competitive cooks out there). A part of a beautiful life, both in process and product.

Now off to buy some beans...

What's Up With the Seafood Watch?

2008-12-12T16:08:00.008-05:00

(Mackerel photo by Amy Groark, kindly shared via a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works License.)

If anybody is actually reading this on a regular basis, you might have noticed that I'm adding Seafood Watch ratings to my seafood recipes. I decided to do this after seeing some discussion on sustainable fish choices in some of the comments on Beyond Salmon, home of my sometimes-teacher and blogging role model Helen Rennie (aka, The Fish Queen).

I'm trying to live by the the idea that every dollar you spend is a vote for the world you want to live in*. The money we spend on food is one area where we have the most access to alternatives, and where our choices have the most impact.

Each of us has to decide:

Which issues are important to us:
- ecology
- local vs. global economies
- food security
- animal treatment
- health & safety
- tradition
- social justice / fair trade
- etc.

How we should support those values:
- giving up a food vs. eating less of it
- changing our consumption of specific foods vs. focusing our attention on how they're produced, where, and by whom
- opting out of something entirely vs. using our dollar votes and voices to influence how it's made, sold, etc.
- which businesses (both manufacturers and retailers) we should support

How strictly we want to adhere to those choices:
- religiously
- carefully
- whenever practical
- more often than not
- better than we used to (i.e., the baby steps approach)

I strongly believe that there are no right or wrong answers to these questions. Nobody can decide for you, and nobody else should.

Not that it's wrong to put forward an argument for your own position. But nobody else is qualified to analyze your values and personal situation and decide what's right for you. And anyone who claims that there is only one right way has something to gain by having you adopt that way**.

Making a conscious decision on how to spend your food dollars takes a lot of research. But don't let that scare you off! Learning where your food comes from and how it's produced is empowering; it means that your choices are really your choices. Here are a few topics you might want to read about:
- conventional vs. organic production (and certified organic vs. not certified but meeting many or all requirements)
- pastured vs. grain-fed/industrial animal products
- local vs. non-local production (i.e., "food miles")
- monocultures and biodiversity
- social justice in the production and distribution of food
- globalization

After you educate yourself on these topics and examine your values, most of the decisions you make are going to be pretty straight-forward. They may not be easy or convenient, but they'll be pretty easy to formulate, ex: "I'm going to start buying fair trade coffee".

However, when it comes to choosing seafood, things gets more complicated. The impact your seafood purchases depends on the species, how it's fished, and where it comes from. And that means that you have to make a LOT more choices than just conventional eggs vs. cage-free.

So, in the interests of helping you make informed decisions about voting with your food dollars, I'm going to be posting the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch ratings for any seafood dishes I post. That rating assumes that the reader is buying their seafood in the US. Those of you in other countries may want to consult one of the buying guides from The Seafood Choices Alliance.

Now, I would like to make two things clear:

1) I am posting the ratings as an informational tool, not to imply what you "should" be doing. The choice is yours. I'm not going to judge you for making choices different from mine, and I'm not going to give you any brownie points for making more extreme choices than I do.

Anyone who educates themselves on the issues and makes an informed, honest choice based on their own values and circumstances has my respect, no matter where that choice falls on the spectrum.

2) This blog is NOT the place to debate issues of what people should eat, whether for health or ethical reasons. By all means, have that discussion, but take it to another venue.

* that's the subtitle of The Better World Shopping Guide. We received it as a housewarming gift from our awesome real estate agent, Ken Sazama, and I highly recommend them both.

** a quote from Shakira (a dancer in Illinois, not the Columbian singer)

Shrimp with Vanilla Bean Butter

2008-12-12T12:11:00.012-05:00

This recipe was inspired by a lobster dish I had at Legal Sea Foods a couple of years ago. It was absolutely brilliant, but, unfortunately, was a special, and I haven't seen it since. Here is my version, adapted for serving at home.

It's fast, it's easy, it's tasty, and it will impress your guests!

Notes:

As with many of my recipes, the ingredients matter. This recipe is especially sensitive to quality, so don't skimp!

Get the biggest shrimp you can find and afford. The larger shrimp will have a crunchier, crisper texture, more like that of a lobster tail. They are pricey, but it's worth it. I wait until they go on sale and then buy a bag or two. No matter what size you buy, be sure they still have their shells on. The toasty flavor that you get by cooking the shrimp in their shells is integral to this dish!

Don't substitute vanilla extract for the vanilla bean. It won't work.

And, for the love of the food gods, do not, I repeat: NOT, use margarine or other butter substitutes. You have been warned...

One substitution I can recommend is to use lobster tails (broiled in their shells) instead of the shrimp. You're on your own for cooking instructions, though; I hear it's hard to cook them through without drying them out.

Shrimp with Vanilla Bean Butter

Serves 2 as a main course, or 4 as an appetizer

Time:
Prep: 5 minutes, not including thawing time
Cooking: 4 minutes

Ingredients:

12 oz to 1 lb. shrimp, still in their shells
Olive oil or clarified butter for brushing (less than 1 Tbsp)

3 Tbsp butter
1-inch length of vanilla bean
salt to taste (optional)

Instructions:

- If the shrimp are still frozen, thaw them, but do not remove the shells. It's safest to thaw them overnight in the refrigerator. I usually thaw them in a bath of cool water on the kitchen counter, changing the water once or twice, and removing any ice that forms. However, that method does NOT meet food safety guidelines. I warned you, so you'd be trying it at your own risk.

- Preheat your broiler or grill on high.

- Slit the vanilla bean lengthwise, and scrape out all the tiny seeds, and place the seeds in a small microwaveable bowl or sauce dish.

- Add the butter, and microwave on the lowest power setting (try defrost!) until melted and warmed, but not spattering. Stir to mix.

(Feel free to melt the butter using the method of your choice. You can also clarify the butter for fancier presentation, but that's optional, and I prefer the flavor of non-clarified butter.)

- Pat the shrimp dry with paper towels, and place on a broiler pan or grilling skewers. Brush or spray with oil to lightly coat the shrimp, paying attention any exposed flesh.

- Broil/grill the shrimp 4-6" from the heating element, turning once, until the flesh is just opaque, and the shells are toasted, about 2 minutes per side.

The exact color of the toasted shells is up to your personal prefernce: they may have a few light brown toasty spots on them, or be somewhat blackened. The only important thing is that the flesh is fully opaque, but not dried out, and that the shells give off a nice, toasty flavor.

Serve in the shells, with dipping butter on the side.

Serving Tips:

Accompaniments: This is amazing with pan-grilled asparagus (recipe coming soon). Keep any starch accompaniments relatively neutral: creamy mashed potatoes without herbs, pasta with butter, or just some good bread. I love the idea of the texture of a creamy risotto with this, but risotto isn't really risotto without the cheese, which would clash with the vanilla... (Maybe a garlic-and cheese-free pseudo-risotto should be my next experiment...)

Wine Pairings: This is absolutely perfect for a Viognier. If this is a celebratory dinner, a decent dry champagne-style sparkling white would also work well. I am a fan of Korbel; it's not in the same league as Veuve Clicquot, but it's a very nice wine, and a good deal for the price ($12-15).

Presentation: If you really, really want to, you can shell the shrimp before serving, but they look so much nicer in their shells! It's not hard for the guests to shell them at the table: pull the meat out by hand (make sure they've cooled enough to handle), or use your fork to lift the meat out from the shell, and your knife to cut it free at the base of the tail.

For formal presentation, you can sever the meat from tail before serving (don't pull the meat out of the shell, just use a sharp knife to slice through it where it meets the tip of the tail), or provide finger bowls of lemon water and small towels or napkins.

Seafood Watch:
(Note: the rating only applies to seafood purchased in the US. Readers from other countries may want to try the Seafood Choices Alliance)

Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Score: Avoid

Shrimp is listed as a "good alternative" if it's produced in the US or Canada (farmed or wild), but the vast majority of shrimp you'll find is produced in supermarkets is imported, which is on the "avoid" list. Your fishmonger may be able to get you domestic shrimp, as well as lots of other tasty seafood.

Creamed Codfish with your choice of base (i.e., yummy white goo)

2008-09-30T22:29:00.014-04:00

This is one of those love-it-or-hate-it dishes. Quite literally: half my family loves it, and the other half hates it. I love it. My dad loves it. My husband loves it. My gramma loves it. Several of my aunts and uncles hate it. But since I'm not feeding them, who cares. :)

Salt cod is one of those funny things: it looks weird, and smells more than strange, but, with that alchemy of food that never fails to surprise me, makes the most delicious things. Plus, it's fairly cheap, and keeps forever, so it's easy to prepare.

If the idea of salt cod doesn't immediately turn you off, give it a try. It is an incredibly satisfying, filling, warming goo. You'll get something similar to brandade if you substitute olive oil for the butter, puree it until smooth, and optionally add some garlic. (Although the internets tell me that "real" brandade doesn't have garlic.)

Serve on top of mashed potatoes. (The smoothness is your call: I like mine lumpy, my husband swears by whipped.) Alternatively, cauliflower puree makes a lighter, sweeter base.

I meant to take some pictures of this dish, but it was so good, we ate it before I could get around to it. Instead, here is a photo of my gramma, Peg Donnelly, who gave me this recipe.

(That's her in the foreground; is she a looker, or what?)

Creamed Codfish
Serves 2 to 4, depending on how hungry you are

Ingredients:

Salt Cod:
1lb salt cod (bacalao)
2 tbsp butter
2 tpsb flour
1/2 to 1 cup heavy cream
salt and pepper to taste (lots of pepper!)

Goo Base:

1 lb potatoes (whichever variety you like best, peeled or just scrubbed) or cauliflower (fresh or frozen)
2 Tbs butter
1/4 to 1/2 cup cream, to produce the desired texture (more for potatoes, less for cauliflower. Milk may be substituted in the potato version only)
salt and pepper to taste

The night before you want to serve this dish, cover the salt cod in water, with about 2 inches extra. In the morning, drain the water and cover again. If you have time, drain, cover, and soak a third time when you get home from work.

Prepare the goo base: cut the potatoes into pieces about 1" cube, or cut the cauliflower into florets. Cover with cold water and sprinkle with salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat down to medium and simmer until tender. Drain, then add the butter and cream/milk and mash or puree. Salt and pepper to taste.

Prepare the white sauce: melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour, and cook until it releases a cooked, nutty smell. Add cream/milk, and cook, stirring, until thickened. (It should be about the same thickness as a good marinara sauce.)

Cook the cod: drain the cod a final time and cover with water, with at least 2 inches extra. Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn heat to medium and simmer until the fish flakes easily with a fork. Drain, and allow to cool until it easy to handle. Flake with a fork or your fingers, checking for and removing any bones. Add fish to the white sauce, and warm over low heat until nice and hot.

Serve on top of mashed potatoes or cauliflower puree. Salt and pepper to taste, but don't be shy about the pepper!

A sauvignon blanc would cut through the fishy flavor, while the full body of a chardonnay (I prefer unoaked) would complement the richness of the cream base.

(update 12/08)
Seafood Watch:
(Note: the rating only applies to seafood purchased in the US. Readers from other countries may want to try the Seafood Choices Alliance)

Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Score: Avoid for Atlantic Cod. Pacific Cod is a Good Alternative if trawl-fished, or a Best Choice if caught on longlines.

Potage Crecy (sort of), Two Ways

2008-08-03T13:48:00.004-04:00

One of my comfort foods is my mom's carrot soup, aka Potage Crecy. There is nothing like it on a cold night: rich, velvety, and thick, with some chewy multi-grain bread. (Which is why I'm DYING for Volume 2 of Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day, which will deal with whole-grain breads.) The chilled variation at the bottom makes a fantastic summer dish.

The traditional recipe is made with carrots and potatoes (think Vichyssoise, but hot and with carrots instead of leeks). My version uses cauliflower instead of potatoes, which makes the mixture sweeter, and lighter in texture. This recipe has a nice balance of the carrot and cauli flavors, but some people prefer a stronger carroty flavor. Feel free to play with the proportion of carrots to cauliflower until you find the ratio you like best.

Resist the urge to add cream - it doesn't make it any better, and even dilutes the flavors. (Believe me - I tried it!)

Potage Jessy
(Jessy is the nickname my family used when I was little, including most of the times I ate this soup)

Serves 4 as a meal or 6-8 as an appetizer

1/2 lb carrots, peeled and chopped into rounds
1/2 lb cauliflower floretts & stem pieces (frozen or fresh)
2 cups of chicken stock
2 Tbsp butter (optional, but highly recommended)
2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley (optional) or the fresh herb of your choice (dill is nice too)
salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

Special equipment:
- blender, immersion/stick blender, or food mill

Instructions:

- put the carrots, cauliflower, and chicken stock in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, and bring to a boil

- lower the heat and simmer until the vegetables are tender but not falling apart (10-15 minutes)

- pour half the cooking liquid into another container and reserve.

- puree the vegetables and remaining cooking liquid until very smooth

- continue to add the remaining cooking liquid 1/4 cup at a time, pureeing, until you reach the desired consistency.

- add butter and puree until completely incorporated

- ladle into bowls and garnish with chopped parsley

- add fresh-ground pepper and salt to taste
NOTE: salt is usually not needed unless you used sodium-free stock!

This is great with a nutty whole-grain bread and a crisp white wine. A grassy french-style sauvignon blanc would pick up on the herb garnish, while the rounder body of a nice chardonnay (I prefer the unoaked ones) would complement the smooth richness of the soup.

VARIATION:

For a nice summer dish, serve chilled. You can also omit the parsley and substitute a heaping tablespoon of full-fat yogurt (regular or strained), placed in the middle of the dish. For a real treat, use home-made yogurt. (It's not that hard, really!) A nice sauvignon blanc would really pick up the zing of the yogurt.

Don't anger the food gods!!!

2008-07-25T16:55:00.001-04:00

So, some of you may be aware that, in addition to being both a food and computer geek, I am also a dancer. At my last class, our teacher gave us her Lebanese husband's recipe for a cucumber and yogurt salad, and mentioned that it can be made with fat-free yogurt. As I did in class, I would like to set the record straight:

Fat-free yogurt is a sin in the eyes of the food gods.

Seriously. I'm very much against one-size-fits-all dietary advice; if a low-fat diet is a good choice for you, then go for it. However, most reduced-fat foods (not to be confused with foods that are naturally low in fat) make the food gods cry, and fat-free yogurt is possibly the worst offender.

Full-fat yogurt, especially the yummy strained kind ("greek style", "labneh", etc.), is a beautiful thing. It's thick, rich, creamy, and twice as tasty as sour cream. Low-fat yogurt is to full fat as wonder bread is to a fresh, crusty, home-made loaf. Fat-free is the equivalent of taking a big bite of flour and yeast.

If you're watching your fat intake, you'd do much better to buy full-fat yogurt, and eat a smaller portion, savoring it slowly. The better the yogurt, the less it'll take to satisfy you.

That said, getting good yogurt isn't always easy. Fage Total is becoming more widely available (it recently moved from the "specialty" section to the regular yogurt case at my Star Market), but it is expensive.

So what do you dowhen you're faced with the choice between sublime yogurt at five dollars per pint and nasty fake yogurt full of corn syrup and fillers? Make your own!

Now, I know that is going to scare a lot of you off, but stay with me, you can do this...

HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN YOGURT:
(it's not that hard, really!)

Tip: quality ingredients make a big difference here, so be sure to read the notes below each ingredient!

Ingredients:

- 1 quart whole milk

Choose the most flavorful, full-fat milk you can get your hands on. I usually use Jersey cow milk from a local dairy (Shaw Farm, which is available in several shops around the Boston area, including The Dairy Bar, an offshoot of Kickass Cupcakes in Somerville). When that's not available/convenient, I'll buy whatever organic brand the supermarket carries.

- 1/4 cup of plain yogurt

This is your starter culture that "innoculates" the milk with the bacteria that will turn the milk into yogurt for you. (Don't let the thought of bacteria gross you out - these little guys, also known as "bioflora" help keep you healthy by setting up shop in your digestive tract, crowding out bad bacteria that can make you sick.) This yogurt MUST be fresh to ensure that there are enough bacteria still alive in there, so choose yogurt whose expiration date is at least a week away. For future batches of yogurt, you can just save the last bit from your last batch, but you'll get the best results if you make it within 5 days of the last batch.

Choose a yogurt that you like for the starter: the specific strain of the bacteria will affect the final flavor of the yogurt. I use Fage, since that's what I'm trying to duplicate. I'm told other people have gotten good results with Stonyfield Farm.

Equipment:
- a saucepan that can contain at least 1 qt. of milk
- a yogurt maker OR a 1 qt glass jar with lid (I'm told the big applesauce jars work really well)
- a spoon for stirring
- a big bath towel (if not using a yogurt maker)
- thermometer (optional)
- a pen and paper for notes

Instructions:

- wash your hands and the glass jar and lid (or the tub and lid that came with your yogurt maker).

- heat the milk in the saucepan over medium heat, stirring frequently, until you can only just keep your finger in it for a count of three. If you're using a thermometer, that should be about 170 degrees F.
DO NOT LET IT BOIL, and be sure to stir it often enough to prevent a skin from forming on top. If the skin does form, skim it off before proceeding.

- take the milk off the heat, and let it cool until you can keep your finger in it for a count of ten, but it still feels very warm, like a nice bath. If you're using a thermometer, that's about 110 degrees F.
IMPORTANT: the milk is a yummy growth medium for the helpful yogurt bacteria, but other bacteria would flourish in there too. Be sure to wash your hands before testing the yogurt, particularly if you have touched anything in the meantime, such your nose/mouth/face, money, dirty dishes, or raw meat.

- place the starter yogurt in your jar or the yogurt maker's tub. Add a small splash of the warm milk, and mix well. Add the rest of the milk, a little at a time, until completely mixed.

- If using a yogurt maker, cover the tub, place it in the yogurt maker and turn it on (follow the manufacturer's instructions). If you're not using a yogurt maker, cover the glass jar, wrap it up snugly in the towel, and place it somewhere away from drafts.

- Let your yogurt incubate until it reaches the desired tartness and is just a little runnier than you had in mind. For me, that's usually 8 hours, although you could do as little as 4 if you like it very runny, or up to 12 if you like your yogurt really tart.

- Put it in the fridge to chill and thicken a little further.

You can enjoy your yogurt as-is, stir in some fruit or jam, or move on to the following steps to make thick, rich, strained yogurt.

HOW TO MAKE STRAINED YOGURT (aka "Greek-Style" or "labneh")

Equipment:

- a large sieve (1 qt capacity)

- 2 large coffee filters (the big ones used for coffee urns and office coffee makers)

- tin foil

OR

- a yogurt strainer

Instructions:

- If using the sieve method, place the two coffee filters (in a double layer) in the sieve. Otherwise, assemble the yogurt strainer according to the manufacturer's instructions (i.e., put the strainer part in the basin).

- Dump the yogurt into the filters or the strainer section

- Cover, and leave in the fridge to strain for 4-8 hours or until it reaches the desired thickness.

- Pour out the whey (or save it to make something else, like gjestost or whey ricotta)

- Place the strained yogurt into a storage container, and enjoy!

Coming soon: some recipes for using all that yummy yogurt!

Mini-Recipe: Cinnamon-Hazelnut Caffe con Panna

2007-10-12T15:01:00.001-04:00

I'm loath to call this a recipe, since it's simple and not particularly unexpected, and the instructions are just "best practices", not required procedures. That said, it was so delicious and satisfying that I just had to post it.

Cinnamon-Hazlenut Caffe con Panna
Serves 1 as a beverage or a dessert

Ingredients:
1 rounded Tbsp hazelnut-flavored coffee beans, ground
8 fl. oz. boiling water
1 fl. oz. unsweetened heavy cream, whipped (appx 1/2 cup whipped if made with a nitrous oxide whipper*, or 1/4 cup if whipped manually)
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon, divided
sugar, to taste

Instructions:

Prepare the coffee: Place the ground coffee beans and half the cinnamon (1/8 tsp) in a french press coffeemaker. Add boiling water, and put the lid on the coffeemaker. (Do not press the plunger yet.) Allow to steep 4 minutes, or until the coffee reaches the desired strength. Press the plunger to strain out the grounds.
(Alternatively, prepare the coffee using the method of your choice, adding 1/8 tsp cinnamon to the ground coffee beans.)

Assemble: pour the coffee into a coffee cup or mug. Sweeten to taste. (If your're drinking this as a beverage, use less for a slightly-to-moderately sweet result. If this is your dessert, use more to make it very sweet.) Top with whipped cream, and sprinkle with remaining 1/8 tsp cinnamon.

Variations:
This can be done with a variety of coffee flavors and spices. Vanilla coffee with pumpkin pie spice is particularly good. Also try unflavored coffee with a mix of cinnamon and cocoa. I've also done it with cinnamon and chocolate syrup.

Notes:
The quality of the ingredients really matters for this recipe. Choose a good-quality, flavorful coffee. I like the smoothness of ~~Eight O'Clock~~ (correction: Chock Full O' Nuts) coffee, but if you like a bolder, harsher coffee, honor your own preferences. This recipe would also be delicious with 2 fl. oz. espresso substituted for the prepared coffee. You could use sweetened whipped cream if you really want to, but I think that sweet coffee with unsweetened cream gives a more pleasing contrast. Try it both ways and see which you like best. I recommend using home-made whipped cream (made in a nitrous oxide whipped cream maker*, or by hand using a mixer or whisk), rather than commercial canned whipped cream. The commercial kinds contain stabilizers and sometimes preservatives, and I don't think they taste as good.

Do not, under any circumstances, substitute a "frozen whipped topping" like Cool-Whip. It will not be the same.

* Disclosure: the Amazon product links go through my affiliate account, meaning that if you click to those links and then buy them, I will receive a commission. (As of this writing, I haven't received any amazon commissions at all.) I only include links for products I have tried myself, but if you're uncomfortable accepting a recommendation when there is profit involved, then just go to amazon.com (or elsewhere) and search for the item, and I won't get the commission. That's okay. :)

Whip It Review

2007-10-12T12:24:00.002-04:00

I'm not kitchen gadget fanatic. For one thing, I enjoy the process of cooking, and prefer to do most things by hand. Saving a few minutes is not worth sacrificing the kitchen's sensual experiences:
- slipping the skin off an onion
- the squeak of a knife sliding through mushrooms
- the swampy resistance of stirring bigos
- the aroma of toasting shrimp shells
- the fleshy "give" when poking a perfectly rare steak to gauge doneness

For another, our stuff-to-space ratio is high enough that anything we store in our kitchen needs to earn its keep.

The George Foreman Grill* is facing eviction. Don't get me wrong; it's a perfectly good appliance. It just doesn't produce the kinds of things I want to eat right now, and doesn't enhance the experience of cooking.

The Whip-It* whipped cream maker, on the other hand, has been granted an indefinite lease for prime real estate in the refrigerator door.

This product is fantastic. It uses charger cartridges* to inject nitrous oxide gas into heavy cream. The gas-injected cream is stored under pressure in the canister, and so it doesn't actually whip until you dispense it, when the gas bubbles distributed throughout the cream can expand. (Similar to the bubbles in carbonated beverages.)

Because the prepped cream doesn't actually "whip" until it's dispensed, it can be stored up to 14 days in the refrigerator, vs. the day or two fridge life of home-made whipped cream. The other benefit is serving size. Although the whip-it does inject a full pint of cream at once, you can dispense as little as you want at a time. It's difficult to manually whip less than 1/2 cup of cream at a time, and I haven't been able to get less than 1/4 cup to work at all.

Other benefits:

- the cream is perfectly whipped; you won't accidentally whip up a batch of butter

- cream made in the the whip-it has about twice as much volume as manual beating. The packaging says 1 pt. of cream makes 4-5pts of whipped cream (vs. the 2 pts you get from manually whipping 1 pt. of cream), but I also confirmed this with my kitchen scale this morning. 2 Tbsp (1 fl. oz.) of fluid heavy cream weighed 30g, and 30g of whipped cream was over half a cup (4 fl. oz.) This means that the same-sized puff of whipped cream is both fluffier and cheaper!

- you can use the sweetener of your choice, or make unsweetened whipped cream (my preference)

- you can add flavorings to your whipped cream to make mousse-like desserts (cocoa, amaretto, etc.) I haven't tried this yet.

- you don't need any preservatives or stabilizers

The only downsides are:

- it isn't dishwasher-safe. The canister needs to be washed after each batch, and the nozzle and tip should be washed after each dispensing (otherwise you get crusty bits of cream). However, it's not a hassle to wash.

- you need to keep buying nitrous oxide chargers. These run 60-70 cents each when you buy the 10- or 24-packs, but can also be purchased in larger quanitities for a larger discount. It's still much cheaper than commercial whipped cream (and better-tasting). And, by volume, it's even cheaper than making the cream yourself, since you double the volume of whipped cream you produce, and the charger is cheaper than the amount of cream you save.

Coming soon: a mini-recipe!

* Disclosure: the Amazon product links go through my affiliate account, meaning that if you click to those links and then buy them, I will receive a commission. (As of this writing, I haven't received any amazon comissions at all.) I only include links for products I have tried myself, but if you're uncomfortable accepting a recommendation when there is profit involved, then just go to amazon.com (or elsewhere) and search for the item, and I won't get the commission. That's okay. :)

Recipe Reference: Buttered Radishes

2007-10-07T14:42:00.000-04:00

As you may have noticed by now, I really like food, and I really like to talk about food. Every so often, however, I run across my heart's words in someone else's voice. So without further ado, check out Orangette's post on Buttered Radishes.

Then (if you don't already have some left over from my roasted radishes recipe) run to the market and buy some fresh radishes (the kind with the tops on, not the bagged ones) and the best butter and salt you can get your hands on.

Trust me on this.

Looking for Savor Lightly? You've found it!

2007-10-07T14:35:00.001-04:00

If you were looking for Savor Lightly, welcome to my new home, Omnivory!

I started this blog while on a diet, but I no longer espouse that lifestyle. So I've removed reference to fat/carbs/calories, etc., and am focusing more on good food. So whether you're on a weight loss program or not, happy eating!

Roasted Radishes

2007-09-22T20:33:00.001-04:00

Most people never consider cooking radishes, but these are yummy! The roasted flavor and wrinkly red skins makes them the perfect accompaniment to roast beef or chicken (try mixing with other roasted root veggies). Even if you've never liked radishes, don't be afraid to try these. The roasting process mellows the radishes' bitter flavor.

Roasted Radishes:
Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 lb radishes
1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp butter, divided
salt and pepper, to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut the radishes in half. If any of the radishes are significantly larger than the others, cut the larger ones into quarters. Place in a baking dish. Dot with 1 Tbsp butter.

Bake, turning occasionally, until the radishes are softened and their skins are wrinkly and browned to your liking (30-45 minutes). Toss with the remaining 1 tsp butter until melted and evenly distributed. Add salt and pepper to taste.

NOTES

The cooking temperature is flexible for this recipe, so feel free to vary the temperature if you're roasting these alongside another dish. It will work equally well from 350-450 degrees, and might work from 300-500, although I haven't tried it. If you do try it at a particularly low or high temperature, post a comment to let me know how it works out.

Complementary Creations: Selfish Shrimp and Tarragon Soup

2007-07-31T22:16:00.001-04:00

If there's one quality that all great chefs share, it's respect for their ingredients. The chef is like the conductor of a choir, directing the blending of many singers, and choosing soloists and duets to shine through. But, regardless of its role, each ingredient contributes its own unique voice to the ensemble. This is one of the great beauties of food; the unity and contrast of the one and the whole.

Respect for the ingredient also takes another form: an aversion to waste. This is partially driven by the restaurant's bottom line, of course. But there is a deeper urge that was driven home to me this weekend when I took a knife skills class at the Cambridge School of Culinary Arts. While showing us how to remove the inner membrane of a bell pepper, the instructor kept suggesting ideas for the scraps, constantly pointing out "all that pepper flavor" we were tossing into the waste pile. That's when I came to understand that the primary concern is not wasting something you can sell; it's wasting something you can taste. Wasting flavor was a greater culinary sin than wasting money.

In that spirit, I've decided to create a new "column" on this blog: complementary creations. Whenever there is a significant scrap remaining after one of my Recipe Three-ways, I will attempt to create a recipe that uses it, or point you to an existing recipe that does.

Assuming you use frozen raw shrimp to make my Shrimp and Tomato Persillade, you will almost certainly come out of it with a pile of shrimp shells. Useless? Hardly.

Shrimp stock is a magical ingredient. Its own taste is not very distinct, but it can serve as a rich underlayer for brighter flavors, or add complexity to meatier flavors. Mark Bittman mixes it half-and-half with chicken stock for a rich and complex base for Garlic Soup with Shrimp in The Minimalist Cooks At Home. In this recipe, the shrimp stock highlights the crisp acidity of the vinegar, and the bright vegetal quality of the tarragon. If you are going to make this recipe ahead, add the vinegar right before serving; otherwise it may curdle.

Each 2-serving batch of Shrimp and Tomato Persillade will produce enough shrimp shells for one cup of stock, so I recommend keeping the shells in the freezer until you have enough for the desired amount of soup. Or, better yet, be selfish and only make enough soup for yourself! You have my permission.

Selfish Shrimp and Tarragon Soup
Serves 1

Ingredients:
Shrimp shells (including tail and legs) left over from 8 oz. of frozen shrimp
1/2 tsp olive oil
1/2 shallot, coarsely chopped or sliced (you may substitute appx. 1 Tbsp of onion)
appx 3 cups water
1/2 to 1 tsp apple cider vinegar, or any fruit-flavored vinegar
1/2 tsp butter (low-fat and low-both may substitute 5 sprays of butter spray)
Salt to taste, preferably sea or kosher
Pepper to taste, preferably fresh-ground
1 tsp chopped fresh tarragon, or 1/4 tsp dried (or try it with sage!)
cooked shrimp, whole or chopped (optional)

In a small saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium or medium-high heat and add the shallots. Sautee until just softened. Add the shrimp shells, and saute until they release a nutty aroma. (I prefer to continue to cook until they are lightly browned. Either way, don't skip this step.) Add the water, and reduce heat to medium. (If using dried tarragon, add it at this time.) Simmer until the stock is reduced to approximately 1 cup. It should have a rich, milky look to it. Pour through a sieve, and press the shrimp and shallots into the sieve with the back of a spoon to extract as much of the juices as possible. Stir in the vinegar, salt, and butter or butter spray. Adjust seasonings to taste. Pour over cooked shrimp if desired, and sprinkle with tarragon and pepper.

Nutritional Stats:
Note: I was not able to find nutritional information for shrimp stock, so I am using the values for canned chicken broth. I am also assuming that that value already includes the contribution from the shallots (since most stocks are made with onions). This may introduce some error. As usual, the nutritional information was calculated in FitDay.

Low-carb: 58 calories, 5g fat, 1g carb, 1g fiber, and 2g protein.
Low-fat and low-both (using butter spray): 41 calories, 3g fat, 1g carb, 1g fiber, and 2g protein.

If adding shrimp, add 77 calories, 1.3g fat, 0.6g carb, 0g fiber, and 15g protein per 2oz (weighted without shell).

(Update 12/08)
Seafood Watch:
(Note: the rating only applies to seafood purchased in the US. Readers from other countries may want to try the Seafood Choices Alliance)

Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Score: Avoid

Shrimp is listed as a "good alternative" if it's produced in the US or Canada (farmed or wild), but the vast majority of shrimp you'll find is produced in supermarkets is imported, which is on the "avoid" list. Your fishmonger may be able to get you domestic shrimp, as well as lots of other tasty seafood.

Recipe Three-Ways: Shrimp and Cherry Tomato Persillade

2007-07-30T14:55:00.003-04:00

This dish is one of my stand-bys. It's based on the Shrimp Persillade recipe from James Peterson's "Fish & Shellfish" (highly recommended), but underwent a metamorphosis the summer that I made my first stab at container gardening.

Let's just say that my efforts weren't very successful - a cat dug up my pot of turnips and radishes, my snow peas wilted, and the lemon cucumbers were so evil (spiney, snaking vines that tried to strangle the other plants) that I uprooted them myself. But the cherry tomatoes thrived. I had planted two pots: one of fairly ordinary red grape tomatoes, and one of sweet, flavorful, golden-orange sungold cherry tomatoes. After about two weeks of tomato and mozzarella salad, I was ready for a change, and inspiration struck. Where inspiration took the form of a bag of frozen shrimp that fell out of the freezer and landed on my foot.

This dish is fast, easy, elegant, and can be made at any time of year, but it really shines when cherry tomatoes are in season. It makes a delicious topping for pasta, but can stand on its own as an appetizer or main dish alongside a green vegetable like spinach, asparagus, or brocolli raab. Its appeal is all about balance: the rich olive oil, light and mineralic shrimp, bright parsley, bold garlic, sweet tomatoes, spicy pepper, toasty caramelization, and topped with a nutty cheese. There's also a wonderful balance of textures: silky persillade, firm shrimp, and slightly soft tomatoes that explode into a shower of juice as you bite in.

Shrimp and Cherry Tomato Persillade
Makes 2 hearty appetizer-sized portions, or 1 generous main dish portion

Ingredients:
8 oz. Shrimp, preferably not pre-cooked
12 Cherry tomatoes, washed and dried
1/2 cup Fresh Flat-leaf Parsley
1 clove fresh Garlic (jarred is fine)
1 Tbsp Olive Oil
Pepper, preferably fresh-ground
Salt, preferably kosher or sea salt
2 Tbsp Shredded or shaved parmesan cheese

1- Thaw the Shrimp
If your shrimp is frozen, start it thawing. I'm told that the correct ways to do this are to leave it overnight in the fridge, or run it under cold water in a collander. I usually soak them in cold water, changing it once or twice when ice forms around the shrimp, but try it at your own risk. In the meantime, make the persillade.

2- Make the Persillade
Mince the parsley and garlic together as finely as you can. It should almost resemble a pesto.

3- Prep the Shrimp
Once the shrimp are fully thawed, remove the shells (you can leave the tails on, if desired) and dry them very well with paper towels.

4- Cook the Shrimp
Heat a large frying pan over very high heat. The pan should be large enough to hold all the shrimp without crowding. When the pan is very hot, add the olive oil, and then the shrimp. Stir-fry until the shrimp turn pink and are no longer transparent, about 2 minutes.

5- Add the Persillade
Add the persillade to the shrimp mixture, and continue to stir, being sure to scrape the pan as you go. The persillade should cling to the shrimp and begin to caramelize after about two minutes. (Some may not cling - that's okay. Just make sure that it's being scraped off the bottom and turned along with the shrimp.) I like mine very dark and a little crispy. You may prefer yours only slightly browned.

6- Add the Tomatoes
Add the cherry tomatoes, and continue to stir-fry until the tomatoes are warmed through, and begin to change color slightly and swell, about 1-2 minutes. (The goal is to stop just before they burst, but it's okay if they do.)

7- Serve
Place on top of linguine, or on individual plates. Sprinkle with salt and fresh-ground pepper to taste. Sprinkle with cheese (optional). Serve with crusty bread. (Optional)

Seafood Watch:
(Note: the rating only applies to seafood purchased in the US. Readers from other countries may want to try the Seafood Choices Alliance)

Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Score: Avoid

Shrimp is listed as a "good alternative" if it's produced in the US or Canada (farmed or wild), but the vast majority of shrimp you'll find is produced in supermarkets is imported, which is on the "avoid" list. Your fishmonger may be able to get you domestic shrimp, as well as lots of other tasty seafood.

Welcome to Savor Lightly

2007-07-26T15:28:00.001-04:00

Hi everyone, and welcome! I'm a food and wine geek, but I also have some dietary restrictions, both long-term (to control reactive hypoglycemia) and short-term (currently on a diet). As a result, I spend a lot of time thinking about food. Furthermore, I'm a shameless know-it-all, and love to talk about food.

I'm not quite sure yet what kind of shape this blog is going to take. Some ideas I have include:
- restaurant reviews in the Boston area (or wherever I happen to go)
- recipes
- rhapsodies about particular foods (don't get me started on how much I love radishes or sardines...)
- reminiscences about meals I've eaten
- cooking tips
Early on, I'll probably include a mix of these, although I may narrow my focus as the blog takes shape.

Until next time, eat well!